The World Environmental Organization “Greenpeace” has recognised the SBA group company Utenos Trikotažas
as the first and so far the only company in the world to comply with the Textile Procurement Standard of
“Greenpeace”. The Lithuanian company also became the only production partner of the organization on a global
scale – production of the new “Greenpeace” collection was started in Utena.
The new “Greenpeace” standard embodies all existing best practices in terms of zero use of toxic chemicals, fairness and
transparency.
“It is the standard for any fashion brand really looking to achieve credibility in terms of sustainability. Utenos Trikotažas has
become the first manufacturer to prove it is compliant with these requirements. Under the standard, organically farmed
natural fibres, production tested free of harmful substances, fair pay and transparency are uniquely combined. And all this
with the most stringent testing”, says Viola Wohlgemuth, Consumer and Harm Coordinator at Greenpeace.
“Greenpeace” collection after a long break
When in 2011 the “Greenpeace” has launched Detox My Fashion campaign by announcing that it will suspend all textile
sales “until suppliers and manufacturers can ensure that no hazardous chemicals are used and released at all stages of
production.” A few years later, in 2018, Utenos Trikotažas successfully implemented a pilot phase of production of
“Greenpeace” collection. It became the foundation of the organization’s new standard for textile production, and a year later,
the first large-scale collection was launched.
“This is a historic achievement. Becoming the first producer worldwide to meet “Greenpeace” requirements is phenomenal.
At the same time, it is an appreciation of the long-term efforts of Utenos Trikotažas. We hope that our example will
encourage other textile companies to achieve ambitious environmental goals as well”, says Petras Jašinskas, General
Manager of Utenos Trikotažas AB.
Environmentally friendly production: across the cycle
Utenos Trikotažas has already finished production of the first batch of “Greenpeace” new t-shirt collection and will continue
the production later this year.
According to Viola Wohlgemuth, Utenos Trikotažas and its partners
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have shown that for the first time ever, steps to avoid
hazardous chemical use and contamination have been taken across the entire production chain, from fibres in the
processing of raw materials, to dyeing and printing according to Detox principles, and finally to the sewing and packaging
of high quality, ready-to-wear garments, made to last.
“The new “Greenpeace” textiles procurement standard requires Utenos Trikotažas to control the chemicals used via
complete testing of the wastewaters released when it bleaches, dyes, washes and prints the cotton. This collection proves
that truly clean, fair and completely transparent production is in fact possible. And not in some boutique sewing shop, but
at an industrial level”, Mrs Wohlgemuth says.
EU Commissioner: sustainability is a competitive advantage
Last December, the European Union introduced its strategy of tackling pollution – the Green Deal. It will include the Circular
Economy Action Plan, which will focus in particular on resource-intensive sectors such as textiles, construction, electronics
and plastics.
European Union Commissioner for Environment, Oceans and Fisheries Virginijus Sinkevičius congratulated non-
governmental and private sector initiatives and achievements to make the textile industry greener and emphasized the
importance of sustainability in global competition.
“Textile is one of the main industries, where solutions for the circular economy, reusable materials, and recycling will aim to
improve sustainability. The Circular Economy Action Plan, an important part of the EU’s industrial strategy, is already guiding
the planned transformation, therefore, changes in this area are inevitable. It is true that the first ones to follow this path will
naturally have a competitive advantage in the market”, said Virginijus Sinkevičius, EU Commissioner for Environment,
Oceans and Fisheries.
Years of preparation: Detox My Fashion
“Greenpeace” Detox My Fashion campaign, launched almost a decade ago, put a lot of pressure on the global textile
industry, one of the largest polluter, to eliminate the use and discharge of hazardous chemicals. Environmentalists identified
11 groups of hazardous chemicals widely used in the textile industry that are of particular concern due to their effects on
people and the environment and insisted that the major manufacturers and their suppliers commit themselves to stopping
their use in production.
Utenos Trikotažas, part of the SBA Group, is the only Lithuanian company participating in this campaign and one of the few
Detox-committed companies with a vertically integrated production cycle, i.e. when all production processes, from raw
material production through to the final ready-to-wear product, are being made under one roof.
Since the beginning of the Detox my Fashion campaign, over 80 different textile companies (H&M, Nike, Adidas, Puma and
many more) have joined the initiative, representing about 10–15 per cent of the global apparel market.